As the first of a three-part series on Costa Rica’s connection to the wilder world. Tamsin Harper paints a picture of the magic that Costa Rica’s biodiversity offers. Later in the series: she discusses how Costa Rica’s protection of wildlife can inspire more wildlife friendly governance of western countries. Finally, she explores the need for trans-boundary conservation, the issues these projects face and Costa Rica’s success in achieving this goal.

Haven’t we all, at one point or another, wished to never grow up, to stay young forever and have the most outrageous adventures? Well, I don’t know about the elixir of life but certainly, J.M Barrie’s novel Peter Pan springs to mind when I remember Costa Rica.

Let me share with you the magic of Disney and J.M Barrie, brought to life in the mysterious jungles and clear warm waters of this, the real-life Neverland. First a short geography lesson.

Costa Rica is a central American country stretching the width of the landmass, giving it both a hot Caribbean and cooler pacific coastline. It is one of the most biodiverse countries of its size on the planet, making it the perfect place for new discoveries and adventure.

The tropics (countries located within 30º north and south of the equator) are known to harbour the greatest diversity of life. The exact reason for this is still a mystery but the consistently high temperatures they experience and lack of seasonal fluctuations are thought to contribute to this mysterious phenomenon. Of all these countries, why is Costa Rica so special? The answer lies in the great number of different habitats it holds. Mountain ranges that span the length of the country, cutting it in two, create a somewhat Disney style terrain. On one side the land is hot and dry with sand-like soil that houses arid creatures, whilst only meters away, neighbouring slopes are wet and dense with vast green forest.

Atop the slopes of Costa Rica’s volcanos and mountains are the cloud forests. Hidden from the world below, they are wet and the perfect home for amphibians. At the summit of the Monteverde cloud forest, there once dwelled a golden toad species, now lost to climate change they become the stuff of stories. However, whispers pass through the region detailing their new whereabouts. Lingering on the slopes are strange long-nosed and bushy-tailed dog like mammals called Coatis. They can be found flocking to human encampments and cafes. These fluffy, stripy and endearing animals could steal your heart, but they would much prefer your snacks, so watch out for their nimble human-like hands. Travelling down out of the wet, hummingbird’s flit through the air and hover at nearby trees and shrubs like fairies. Magic to behold and blindingly colourful.

Image: Tamsin Harper (left and right) Jack Ashton (centre)

In the stagnant hot air of the lowland rainforests, your alarm call begins at 5am, throaty calls between howler monkeys that travel over a mile from their source. The forest hums with the sound of chirping frogs, far off exotic birds and the rustle of shifting leaves. Like any true jungle she is teeming with life but hides it well.

Here, thick canopy casts shadows over the forest floor allowing ripples of light to dance over the undergrowth as light wind brush the topmost branches. The longer you walk in silence the more aware you become; you are not alone. The shadows that swing from the vines draping towering skyscraper-like trees move closer. Families of stout pig-like mammals called Peccaries shuffle through the undergrowth and emerge less than a meter ahead, mother and piglets unaware of your presence as they snuffle for food. They act as a fond reminder of man’s best friend as they block the way forward, snout to the floor and tail in the air, passing in single file like ducklings after their mother.

As your eyes begin to adjust to the wall of deep greens that surround, you begin to notice the eyes that watch. Giant iguanas sit basking on logs and tree branches that you pass. Spider monkeys adorned with their clinging young pretend not to notice you watching them eat the sweet, colourful fruits they reach for. Be careful not to stop too long when marvelling at the howler monkeys if you fear loud throaty calls and rouge streams of urine. These primates have good aim and a great set of lungs.

As nightfall approaches and new sounds emerge it doesn’t seem too far fetched to imagine the lost boys camp being somewhere nearby. For now, let’s move onward, along the wide deep rivers towards the sea. Beneath, most defiantly lurk American crocodiles, so don’t take a dip. A boat ride from here will take you into a network of still saltwater rivers surrounded by mangroves. To cast your eyes on the Capuchin monkeys that climb these trees, your boat must pass close to the trunks that stretch down into the water.

Above, streaks of colour flash across the sky. Red and Green Macaws. Such giant regal birds are the stuff of swashbuckling Caribbean pirate stories and are a true sight to behold. The rivers become an estuary, deep and wide with saltwater. Every log begins to look like a Cayman crocodile floating in wait, basking in the hot sun that beats down on their backs.

Travelling out to sea and along the coast, the surroundings are strewn with rocky outcrops and untouched white sand beaches punctuated with coconut trees. Coconuts bob in the water and out to sea as the waves role in. Here the water is warm and clean. Below, you would find crystal clear water teeming with colourful fish. Green turtles rest on rocks that reach up from the sand below, where Stingrays ripple through the water and out of sight. To dive in is a much welcome break from the heat of the day. Truly, who knows what else call these waters home, perhaps dolphins that move like merfolk in and out of lagoons?

I will leave you in the Osa peninsula, the hottest extension of Costa Rica. Its white sand beaches and Coconut trees become red clay-like soil and dry forest as we move only meters inland. In the day the wildlife is almost dormant. Birds are the only real animals that dare to face the sun. Pelicans and Vultures are joined in the sky by Frigate birds, pterodactyl-like creatures that sore through the air. If you brave a sunbathe or crave a swim in the cooling sea, be sure to wear shoes, the caterpillars here are poisonous to touch and very well camouflaged, most commonly as bird droppings, I am told. At night it is cooler here and Capuchins return to the trees as the larger mammals come out to play. Tapirs are stalked across the forests and beaches by Pumas and Jaguars after sundown. If you are lucky enough to cross paths with one of these elusive animals, don’t be alarmed, soak in the moment and remember they are more scared of you than you are of them.

Images: Tamsin Harper

In a land with no real seasonal changes and one with such diverse environments and lurking animals, it is easy to find adventure and mystery. If you stay a while you may start to believe that Peter Pan’s Neverland has been waiting for you all this time.

Next in this three-part series, we will explore how Costa Rica’s government has protected and nurtured their wildlife and may act as an example to other countries like our own. Might we learn from their governance?

In memory of Alan Rushton.

An adventurer among men.

How I wish you had been there to see it all,

From the fast-moving wings, we missed, what a tease,

To the shadows with long arms that swung through the trees.

You’d have loved the colours and warm water too,

An elixir of life and a reminder of youth.

I did it no justice with the stories I told,

You are in Neverland now and will never grow old.

The wonders of Costa Rica: A real life Neverland